I'm sitting in the lobby of our hotel overlooking the harbor with many little boats and one big cruise ship. Highrises sprout from the surrounding hills - blue skies and puffy clouds - quite a contrast to yesterday.
This morning we went to Ephesus where in Roman times before the 6th century over a quarter of a million people lived with running water, toilets and a sanitary waste system. We viewed the restoration process of terrace houses. Many of the mosaic floors and delicate freizes had been amazingly preserved.
This area is known as the third Ephesus. The city kept moving it as the shore line built up so it could continue to be a port. Around the 6th century, Ephesus no longer had access to water and the city declined.
One of the first structures to greet a visitor would have been the baths as traveling was a dirty, dusty ordeal. We saw some of the remnants of these, the Temple to Artimus (which at one time was considered one of the 7 wonders of the world.) There had been 127 Ionian columns - each 70 ft high - around it
We saw ruins of porticos which protected people from the heat and rain; the state agora - market place; the Vestal Virgin area with its eternal fire; and a beautiful sculpture of Niki , the Goddess of Victory
This had been above the gate that kept wagon traffic off the main street.
The most impressive ruin was the re-assembled facade of the library. It had held over 12,000 scrolls. They were written on papyrus. Later a Turkish town came up with parchment, made from hides. It was preferable as it could be bound and read like a book. To keep these documents away from summer's humidity, they were stored between the inner and outer wall of the library.
It is said there was a tunnel between the library and the town brothal. Young maidens sometimes went there before marriage for training, but did not stay unless they were going to be prostitutes.
Paul, Luke and John all preached in Ephesus and John is said to be buried there. Of course, we know about Paul's letters to the Ephesians. When Christians moved into Ephesus, they often knocked off the heads of pagan statues or made a cross on their foreheads.
To walk where so much history has taken place and see glimpses of their artistic and engineering abilities, has been awesome. This trip has introduced us to very caring, friendly people and their wonderful country !
Tonight is our final dinner together. We head for Istanbul tomorrow and home on Friday. It's been fun sharing our adventures with you. Let us know if you want to see any pictures.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Kusadasi
Tonight we're by the Agean Sea in Kusadasi. I've done the last of my sink laundry and am beginning to look forward to being home again. It's been a grand trip and we're glad you wanted to come along. Please let me know if you'd like to see some of our pictures on a "Smile Box" I hope to make soon.
This morning we drove up to Pamukkale-an area where warm 87 degree water and calcium bicarbonate have emerged continuously over the past 14,000 years to form sparkling calcified clifts. The hillsides look like they are topped with heavy snow. We could wade barefoot through the warm waters at the top.
Later we swam through natural hot spring pools. The area was first settled in 2 B C and large Roman columns used to surround these waters. These columns tumbled earlier because of earthquakes and we swam around them at the bottom of the pools. Mark Anthony and Cleopatra were said to have honeymooned here. We could just imagine their pleasure as we floated beneath the palm trees.
There are many ruins there including a 2 A D ampitheater from which they could be entertained by naval battled enacted on the thermal springs as well as plays enacting the life of the gods. It could hold 12,000 people.
The Romans built aquaducts and lined them with lead (pb) which gave us our word "plumbing" but caused them much craziness from lead poisoning They had fountains every 800 feet.
We passed the remains of hundreds of stone tombs. Many looked like small houses into which the bodies were placed. Some had lettering, sculpted pictures, and other decorations on them. There was always the fear of grave robbers as even the poorest person was buried with a gold piece under his tongue to pay his way across the river Styx. Others had much treasure buried with them as it was thought they would need it in their next life. Some wrote curses on the outside of the tombs and other arranged for poison gases to escape and kill anyone who tried to break into the tomb.
We were lucky to only have a shower while we were swmming, but when we got on the bus the rain came down in sheets and we could see lightening over the mountains. We were driving through clouds and were thankful not to be behind the wheel.
We rode through the very fertile Meander Valley known for its strawberries, figs , citrus fruits, and vegies. I noticed more color ( yellow, pink, blue, orange) on the originally grey cement structures
We stopped for lunch along the way. The highway restaurants put our truck stops to shame. All have had a wonderful selection of warm dishes, salads, and desserts for very reasonable prices. Most are cafeteria style We even had table clothes on our tables!
Tomorrow Ephesus!
This morning we drove up to Pamukkale-an area where warm 87 degree water and calcium bicarbonate have emerged continuously over the past 14,000 years to form sparkling calcified clifts. The hillsides look like they are topped with heavy snow. We could wade barefoot through the warm waters at the top.
Later we swam through natural hot spring pools. The area was first settled in 2 B C and large Roman columns used to surround these waters. These columns tumbled earlier because of earthquakes and we swam around them at the bottom of the pools. Mark Anthony and Cleopatra were said to have honeymooned here. We could just imagine their pleasure as we floated beneath the palm trees.
There are many ruins there including a 2 A D ampitheater from which they could be entertained by naval battled enacted on the thermal springs as well as plays enacting the life of the gods. It could hold 12,000 people.
The Romans built aquaducts and lined them with lead (pb) which gave us our word "plumbing" but caused them much craziness from lead poisoning They had fountains every 800 feet.
We passed the remains of hundreds of stone tombs. Many looked like small houses into which the bodies were placed. Some had lettering, sculpted pictures, and other decorations on them. There was always the fear of grave robbers as even the poorest person was buried with a gold piece under his tongue to pay his way across the river Styx. Others had much treasure buried with them as it was thought they would need it in their next life. Some wrote curses on the outside of the tombs and other arranged for poison gases to escape and kill anyone who tried to break into the tomb.
We were lucky to only have a shower while we were swmming, but when we got on the bus the rain came down in sheets and we could see lightening over the mountains. We were driving through clouds and were thankful not to be behind the wheel.
We rode through the very fertile Meander Valley known for its strawberries, figs , citrus fruits, and vegies. I noticed more color ( yellow, pink, blue, orange) on the originally grey cement structures
We stopped for lunch along the way. The highway restaurants put our truck stops to shame. All have had a wonderful selection of warm dishes, salads, and desserts for very reasonable prices. Most are cafeteria style We even had table clothes on our tables!
Tomorrow Ephesus!
Monday, October 18, 2010
This and That
In Antalya we ate in a garden under lemon and tangerine trees. There are over 300 days of sunshine there each year.
When Constantinoble was sacked during the Crusades, it is said the artisans fled to Europe and were instramental in the beginning of the Rennisance (sp).
Wedding dresses in the shop windows are strapless white numbers with very full skirts. One couple in our group saw a wedding couple in Antalya. The bride had blonde streaks dyed in her black hair and was radiant twirling in her full skirt. They asked if they could take their picture and the happy couple posed for them.
Some marriages are still arranged. The prospective groom's family comes to visit bringing sweets. The prospective bride excuses herself to make coffee with the proper amount of foam. If she doesn't like the fellow, she may put salt instead of sugar in his coffee. There is usually a religous as well as legal ceremony. Only 1-2% have only the religous ceremony as the man is not legally bound to the marriage and can walk away. 3-5% have only civil ceremony. Most have both with 200-400 at the celebration!
Couples do not live together before marriage and premarital sex depends on the man's knowledge of birth control. ???
There is no cremation in Turkey. Both weddings and funerals take place outside the mosques.
In 1924 after a war with Greece they had an "exchange of population" and all the Greeks who had been prospering in Turkey had to return to Greece and the Turks living in Greece had to come to Turkey - very painful - one house we stayed in was sold by the forced to leave Greeks for only 10 lira.
Today the lira is worth about 1.5 U S dollars. Even though we have a good rate of exchange, we seem to have spent quite a bit.
Breakfasts ALWAYS have tomatoes , olives, bread, (no croissants) , cheese, and hard boiled eggs. They often have fresh fruit, yogurt, meat, salad fixings ,occasionally cereal, and hot tea - you pour a little strong tea in your cup and add hot water - or Nescafe.
This is the second hotel that we've had a top sheet on the bed.
When Constantinoble was sacked during the Crusades, it is said the artisans fled to Europe and were instramental in the beginning of the Rennisance (sp).
Wedding dresses in the shop windows are strapless white numbers with very full skirts. One couple in our group saw a wedding couple in Antalya. The bride had blonde streaks dyed in her black hair and was radiant twirling in her full skirt. They asked if they could take their picture and the happy couple posed for them.
Some marriages are still arranged. The prospective groom's family comes to visit bringing sweets. The prospective bride excuses herself to make coffee with the proper amount of foam. If she doesn't like the fellow, she may put salt instead of sugar in his coffee. There is usually a religous as well as legal ceremony. Only 1-2% have only the religous ceremony as the man is not legally bound to the marriage and can walk away. 3-5% have only civil ceremony. Most have both with 200-400 at the celebration!
Couples do not live together before marriage and premarital sex depends on the man's knowledge of birth control. ???
There is no cremation in Turkey. Both weddings and funerals take place outside the mosques.
In 1924 after a war with Greece they had an "exchange of population" and all the Greeks who had been prospering in Turkey had to return to Greece and the Turks living in Greece had to come to Turkey - very painful - one house we stayed in was sold by the forced to leave Greeks for only 10 lira.
Today the lira is worth about 1.5 U S dollars. Even though we have a good rate of exchange, we seem to have spent quite a bit.
Breakfasts ALWAYS have tomatoes , olives, bread, (no croissants) , cheese, and hard boiled eggs. They often have fresh fruit, yogurt, meat, salad fixings ,occasionally cereal, and hot tea - you pour a little strong tea in your cup and add hot water - or Nescafe.
This is the second hotel that we've had a top sheet on the bed.
October 18
We were so lucky to have sunshine for our boatride. This morning we headed up the serpentine mountain roads with showers dripping down the windshield. The bus ahead of us sideswiped a parked car. Our busdriver avoided hitting either one and we all breathed a sigh of relief.
Our first stop was a very large Farmer's Martket. Locals from all around came to buy and sell: clothes, shoes, housewares, as well as all kinds of fruits, vegetables and nuts. For the Shiate (sp) women this is a very special occasion each week when they can see their friends and have a bite to eat away from home. They dressed up in bright colors. Everyone was in a holiday mood and it was fun to be a part of the excitement. School children dressed in various uniforms trouped through on their way home for lunch. One older man wanted to talk to us and tell us he had a son who was a registered doctor in NYC.
After lunch we went to Aphrodisias where ancient Greeks and Roman once lived. The ruins date back to 1776 B C. They are impressive. There was an oval stadium that could seat 30,000 people. During the athletic events only men attended because the foot racers, spear throwers and oil wrestlers did so naked. Women would join the crowd for musical and poetry events.
There was another ampitheater that was in amazingly good shape for being so old. This theater was used for government meetings. There are still marks showing where different groups sat.
Temple gates that were at least 40 feet tall have been put together by pieces found buried or broken by earthquakes. The temple was built about 1 B C with 40 columns surrounding it. Animals were brought and sacrificed. Many of the columns have been pieced together. There is also a museum filled with pieces of statues that have been found. Exceptional sculpting!
We're staying in Pamukkale. Have passed fields of cotton, olives, tobacco, sesame, pomegranits etc getting here. Although the Turks excell in color and design in their tiles and carpets, their houses are mostly square cement structures with red tile roof sporting TV dishes, solar panels and a water tank.
I have only had to use a Turkish toilet (2 foot prints on either side of a hole) three times. All of our accomodations have been clean and comfortable, but many of our group have been sick with respiratory or intestinal problems. Most were happy to have the long bus ride to rest.
Our first stop was a very large Farmer's Martket. Locals from all around came to buy and sell: clothes, shoes, housewares, as well as all kinds of fruits, vegetables and nuts. For the Shiate (sp) women this is a very special occasion each week when they can see their friends and have a bite to eat away from home. They dressed up in bright colors. Everyone was in a holiday mood and it was fun to be a part of the excitement. School children dressed in various uniforms trouped through on their way home for lunch. One older man wanted to talk to us and tell us he had a son who was a registered doctor in NYC.
After lunch we went to Aphrodisias where ancient Greeks and Roman once lived. The ruins date back to 1776 B C. They are impressive. There was an oval stadium that could seat 30,000 people. During the athletic events only men attended because the foot racers, spear throwers and oil wrestlers did so naked. Women would join the crowd for musical and poetry events.
There was another ampitheater that was in amazingly good shape for being so old. This theater was used for government meetings. There are still marks showing where different groups sat.
Temple gates that were at least 40 feet tall have been put together by pieces found buried or broken by earthquakes. The temple was built about 1 B C with 40 columns surrounding it. Animals were brought and sacrificed. Many of the columns have been pieced together. There is also a museum filled with pieces of statues that have been found. Exceptional sculpting!
We're staying in Pamukkale. Have passed fields of cotton, olives, tobacco, sesame, pomegranits etc getting here. Although the Turks excell in color and design in their tiles and carpets, their houses are mostly square cement structures with red tile roof sporting TV dishes, solar panels and a water tank.
I have only had to use a Turkish toilet (2 foot prints on either side of a hole) three times. All of our accomodations have been clean and comfortable, but many of our group have been sick with respiratory or intestinal problems. Most were happy to have the long bus ride to rest.
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Mediterranean Cruise
It's hard to find the words to discribe this lovely day Temp about 74, light breeze, azure blue waters - sparkling and welcoming us in for a splash before a freshly cooked lunch of about a dozen dishes including freshly grilled fish. A birthday cake was provided for one of our group celebrating and later in the afternoon fresh fruit was provided. The shoreline was beautiful with expensive resorts and the sun making shadows through the clouds on the surrounding mountains. We had to drive through 3 tunnels to get to our ship. A short time before we were to get off an ice cream boat came by offering ice cream on a stick. Of course we each got one, but were surprised to find they were 5 lira each!
Enroute coming and going we saw palm trees and many perky periwinkle patches. There were 6 golden statues of ladies looking like they were drapped in a sheet, holding an orange in their left hand. They represented the awards given recently at Antalya's international film festival. Antalya's symbol is the orange and these statues were like large Oscars.
Turkey is really a large penisula, surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, Agean Sea, Meramera Sea - up near Istanbul- the Bosphorus Straits, and the Black Sea. It's about the size of Texas
Antalya is a very busy, modern city , filled with high rises.
Enroute coming and going we saw palm trees and many perky periwinkle patches. There were 6 golden statues of ladies looking like they were drapped in a sheet, holding an orange in their left hand. They represented the awards given recently at Antalya's international film festival. Antalya's symbol is the orange and these statues were like large Oscars.
Turkey is really a large penisula, surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, Agean Sea, Meramera Sea - up near Istanbul- the Bosphorus Straits, and the Black Sea. It's about the size of Texas
Antalya is a very busy, modern city , filled with high rises.
The Hamam (Turkish Bath)
We haven't felt this good since our last massage with Misha! We arrived at Antalya on the Mediteranian after driving through Turkey's highest mountains. We stopped in a grove of high cedars for a fresh trout lunch Some hiked through a cave. Jerry and I played Hearts - Jerry shot the moon and won. He's feeling much better.
The mountainsides were covered with these cedars until they reached above the tree line. Cedars from Turkey were said to have been used by Mark Anthony to build ships for Cleopatra.
Antoyla is a big city of a million people. We are staying in a 1920 home in The Inner Castle District with narrow cobbled streets and much charm.
Last night we went to the Hamam for our Turkish bath Wrapped in towels, a lady poured warm water over me and I laid down on a raised warm marble platform with other women until an attendant led me to a marble slab and told me to lie down. She then began to scub me with a loofah- that was a little rough- but then she poured warm water over me and covered me with bushels of bubbling suds. Her hand slipped like silk over my body as she massaged it. She poured more warm water over me and wrapped me on a dry towel. I was told to sit with other ladies from our group and given a glass of apple tea while they painted our faces with a green concoction. We all looked like the Wicked Witch ! After a bit, we washed it off and were led upstairs for an oil massage. By the time that was over we were completely relaxed and glowing. The evening cost $35 US dollars and was definitely a highlight of our trip.
On the bus, the guide answered some questions. Formal schooling begins about 7. Both public and private school cildren wear uniforms, but public is going to do away with them next year. Compulsory schooling is 8 years. For the 1,200,000 kids who finish high school, all must takes a university exam. Only about half are accepted the a university. It is a very tense time and produces many suicides both before and after the exam.
Exams have to be taken after university for state jobs. Recent scandal when 85 people got perfect scores-questions had been leaked somehow.
Unemployment is a big problem in Turkey - about 2 1/2 million - 10.89%.
Military service is compulsory for men 1/2 year for university grads - 1 year for others.
A teacher would make. About 1500 lira before 14% deductions for healthcare etc
A retiree makes about 1000 lira for 3 months - take home pay, cam go direstly to hospital for health issues and pay only 10% for prescribed medicines. Others pay 20% and have much red tape to get hospital services.
There are many women doctors, they only make up 9% of Parliment.
The mountainsides were covered with these cedars until they reached above the tree line. Cedars from Turkey were said to have been used by Mark Anthony to build ships for Cleopatra.
Antoyla is a big city of a million people. We are staying in a 1920 home in The Inner Castle District with narrow cobbled streets and much charm.
Last night we went to the Hamam for our Turkish bath Wrapped in towels, a lady poured warm water over me and I laid down on a raised warm marble platform with other women until an attendant led me to a marble slab and told me to lie down. She then began to scub me with a loofah- that was a little rough- but then she poured warm water over me and covered me with bushels of bubbling suds. Her hand slipped like silk over my body as she massaged it. She poured more warm water over me and wrapped me on a dry towel. I was told to sit with other ladies from our group and given a glass of apple tea while they painted our faces with a green concoction. We all looked like the Wicked Witch ! After a bit, we washed it off and were led upstairs for an oil massage. By the time that was over we were completely relaxed and glowing. The evening cost $35 US dollars and was definitely a highlight of our trip.
On the bus, the guide answered some questions. Formal schooling begins about 7. Both public and private school cildren wear uniforms, but public is going to do away with them next year. Compulsory schooling is 8 years. For the 1,200,000 kids who finish high school, all must takes a university exam. Only about half are accepted the a university. It is a very tense time and produces many suicides both before and after the exam.
Exams have to be taken after university for state jobs. Recent scandal when 85 people got perfect scores-questions had been leaked somehow.
Unemployment is a big problem in Turkey - about 2 1/2 million - 10.89%.
Military service is compulsory for men 1/2 year for university grads - 1 year for others.
A teacher would make. About 1500 lira before 14% deductions for healthcare etc
A retiree makes about 1000 lira for 3 months - take home pay, cam go direstly to hospital for health issues and pay only 10% for prescribed medicines. Others pay 20% and have much red tape to get hospital services.
There are many women doctors, they only make up 9% of Parliment.
Friday, October 15, 2010
Oct 16
Konya is a very conservative city There are no bars and liquor is not served in restaurants, but there are liquor stores and according to a recent survey, Konya is one of the highest consumers of liquor! Go figure! We notice most of the people on the street are wearing dark colors. There was a huge line at the ATM machines last night. We wondered if it were pay day.
Yesterday we visited a caravan stop on the Silk Road. The Sultan built these about every 15 miles as that's about as far as they could travel in a day. He received so much tax and income from the caravans that he gave them free lodging, food, baths and protection. It. was a very large enclosed area with armed guards patrolling atop the wall. The Sultan also provided doctors and vets and if someone had a sick camel, he would replace it - anything to keep trade moving and income coming in. Each trip took about a year, but when Vasco de Gama discovered the water route around Africa, the trip took only 3months and the bottom dropped out of the caravan trade
In the morning we met with an Imam and were able to ask him questions. Even though Turkey is a secular country, the Imams are paid by the government. He said the hardest part of his job is getting people to come to prayer Of the 3,000 in his area only 20-25 come to his mosque to pray. There are other mosques than his though. If someone comes with a problem ( suicide perhaps ) he would give religious answer and refer them to a professional. He feels social needs should be taken care of by state, but mosques in larger cities have soup kitchens, libraries, schools and bazaars.
Friday noon prayers are compulsary for men in mosque. God (Allah) is central. Christ is seen as a prophet - not divine. There is no original son, no need for an intermediator ; no confession. Jewish believe there's a messiah to come. Islam believes Mohammad is the last prophet who came because of human interferance with other religions. Allah is forgiving and grantor of wishes depending on one's personal behavior. Five Pillars: One God and his prophet is Mohammad. Pray 5 times a day. Fast 30 days during Ramadan to appreciate poverty. Give 1/14 of income to poor and needy. Go to Mecca.
Yesterday we visited a caravan stop on the Silk Road. The Sultan built these about every 15 miles as that's about as far as they could travel in a day. He received so much tax and income from the caravans that he gave them free lodging, food, baths and protection. It. was a very large enclosed area with armed guards patrolling atop the wall. The Sultan also provided doctors and vets and if someone had a sick camel, he would replace it - anything to keep trade moving and income coming in. Each trip took about a year, but when Vasco de Gama discovered the water route around Africa, the trip took only 3months and the bottom dropped out of the caravan trade
In the morning we met with an Imam and were able to ask him questions. Even though Turkey is a secular country, the Imams are paid by the government. He said the hardest part of his job is getting people to come to prayer Of the 3,000 in his area only 20-25 come to his mosque to pray. There are other mosques than his though. If someone comes with a problem ( suicide perhaps ) he would give religious answer and refer them to a professional. He feels social needs should be taken care of by state, but mosques in larger cities have soup kitchens, libraries, schools and bazaars.
Friday noon prayers are compulsary for men in mosque. God (Allah) is central. Christ is seen as a prophet - not divine. There is no original son, no need for an intermediator ; no confession. Jewish believe there's a messiah to come. Islam believes Mohammad is the last prophet who came because of human interferance with other religions. Allah is forgiving and grantor of wishes depending on one's personal behavior. Five Pillars: One God and his prophet is Mohammad. Pray 5 times a day. Fast 30 days during Ramadan to appreciate poverty. Give 1/14 of income to poor and needy. Go to Mecca.
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